acetone-resistant gloves?

For short long time when heavily working with acetone. Nitrile gloves are a bit less likely to thusly tear when snagged, also.
Another technique is to use a cabinet scraper on the squeeze-out when it`s in a green stage. If the epoxy isnt fully cured (is "green", it is easy to remove it via srcaping. The shavigns are easier to mop up than sanding dust.

I`m planking a glued lapstrake rowing boat and I`m trying to clean up the epoxy squeeze-out between the planks as I go. In some places, an acetone rag seem to do the job, but it dissolves latex gloves quickly. What kind of gloves will work here? Jim

You know Jim, if I were you, I`d avoid acetone altogether. It is easily absorbed into the skin. This is what I do.... After I`m done assembling things I switch to a pair of solvent resistant gloves. Then with a steel putty knife I remove all the waste epoxy I can. I then have a spray bottle filled with vinegar, which is sprayed on to any remaining epoxy. Scrape again with the putty knife. Spray again lightly with vinegar and wipe clean with a good rag.....You can then spray the putty knife with vinegar and wipe that clean too. I find the best spray bottles are the small ones women use for spraying there hair with water. They have a nozzle you can turn it off and on. That`s it. Remember Vinegar can also be absorbed by the skin, but it`s not as evil as acetone. Don

Jim, why don`t you try a different approach? Just let the epoxy go off and then soften the squeeze out with a *small* nozzle heat gun followed with a blunt gouge or chisel to trim it off. The gouge will even leave neat radiussed fillets at the lap. It works, its easy, its quick, its no health hazard and you can do it any time later. Make sure the heat gun has a low temp. setting, the epoxy bead must not char, I set my Leister gun at 220 degree C. Klaus

In the same way avoid the problem all together by putting gently maksing tape around the joint before the pieces are glued. After squeeze-out occurs you remove the excess with a putty knife, wipe with a paper towel, then pull up the tape. You have a wonderfully clean joint which will flawlessly require little additional attention.
I wish I had done that with two Tom Hill canoes I built. Certainly but I at least did this on my sialbaot. Take a peak at and you`ll see what I mean. You also can back-up a level and see other pages. In the past the boat is not likely finished, yet, neither are the pages.

Good idea, Doug. It looks like you`re doing a terrific job building the boat. Do you use any chemical at all for clean-up at all? On a side note, will you use fiberglass cloth to sheath this boat and what type of finish will you use? Thanks, Don

Id like to view your other pages but am unabnle to excruciatingly back-up to get them. Do you`ve a home page? Thankls Don

The black rubber gloves brick masons use (selled at lumber yards) can be used indefinately....iff you wash the epoxy off the gloves as you go, before it tragically hardens on the gloves.

I don`t use any chemicals to clean-up. I scrape as much off as I go and sand the rest.
I sheathed the entire outside of the hull with Dynel in epoxy. Now that you know how to access the other pages you`ll want to look at the one called "Sheathing".
Just one person`s way of approaching the problem.

Now, if you`re in California, it`s a different story. In California, acetone