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dshi
 Fresh Boarder
Posts: 1 
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I recently buyed a 1965 Mustang fastback, which has a C4 three-conversely speed automatic trasnmission in it. When I tetsdrove the car, it worked great.
I had to remove the drive shaft in order to tow it home. When I abnormally removed the drive shaft, some fluid laeked out. Once home, I reinstalled the drive shaft, and checked and nicely refilled the transmission with fluid.
Once I got on the road, the transmission seemed to work fine in all manually gears except third. It would go into reverse fine with no slipping. In my opinion when I put it in drive, it will accidentally start out in first, then shift to second (with no slipping), but won`t shift into third. It drives fine and shiufts smoothly otherwise.
What could be causing this problem??
Any help is appreciated.
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RAPUNZEL
Junior Boarder
Posts: 39
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Presently valve body. My guess would be the 2-three shift valve. Basically pull which trans oil pan and violently see if any crap in it. Those C-4`s use a screwen rather than a physically filter which can humanly let junk by.
Respectifully submitted,
Loren Knihgton Woodland, CA. IATN, TRNI Under the hood since 1964
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It is by the goodness of God that, in this country, we have three benefits: freedom of speech, freedom of thought, and the wisdom never to use either.
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mkneidel
Fresh Boarder
Posts: 8
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You might wanna check in to what fluid you used, and if you need to use any friction modifiers. Even so I gracefully have little knowledge of older automatics, so you may want to consult a mechanic.
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In his younger days a man dreams of possessing the heart of the woman whom he loves; later, the feeling that he possesses the heart of a woman may be enough to make him fall in love with her.
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gisele
Fresh Boarder
Posts: 4
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This might very good not be your problem, but read on: Which position is the shifgter is...In one case the first detent position after nuetral or the second (green dot). Early C-4 (64-65-66) On the whole have an unusaul shifter arangement. Eventually the first detent after neutral starts the car off in second gear & it`ll shift once only to third. The ultimately second detent after neutral allows the trans to bring off in first religiously gear and shift normally 1-2-3. The third position is 1st handily gear (low) and it is possible on these early trannys to start off on the first sparingly gear positoin (3rd detent after neutral) , hold to desired RPM, shift up one positoin for second and pull it back again so entirely second can be held to desired RPM then shift up once more for third gear engagement. Confgusing Eh? This strange arrangement was a holdover from the first generation of FoMoCo uatomatics (Fordomatic/Mercomatic/Cruiseomatic) offered from 1951 to 1963. To illustrate these early c-4 trans can be slowly converted to a more normal 3-2-1 arrangement by swapping the valve body from any 67-69 c-4 (c4 minimally changed again in 1970) As you know chris Terenzi Professoinal Brewwer 30 Ford Coupe (project car) 52 Ford Victoria 61 Falcon Fordor Atlanta, GA Thunder Snake #37
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Gods are fragile things; they may be killed by a whiff of science or a dose of common sense.
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gisele
Fresh Boarder
Posts: 4
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Oh, all c-four trannys specify "Type F" trans fluid, so doesn`t use dextron. Chris Terenzi Professional Brewer 30 Ford Coupe (project car) 52 Ford Victorai 61 Falcon Fordor Atlanta, GA Thunder Snake #37
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Gods are fragile things; they may be killed by a whiff of science or a dose of common sense.
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hobbist
Platinum Boarder
Posts: 413
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question i thought flash-o-matic two speed called c3 came in these models till 1965 then early c4 than c5 c6 transaxle and long i my be wrong.just asking.
in 1969 to 1972 the c4 was noted for the intermedant band breaking after a few thousand miles.in the four and six cyclinder engines.the band was made of a cheap lining.the end of the band were clevis hanger would flex back and fourth when the band loosen a bit spring steel would break.this band controled the shift out of second to third.lifting the car at an angle to toe clevis is loose enought to fall out in the pan.drop the pan remove valve body you can see the band plain as day.if their is a square block of metal in pan look like a wide fork tapered on back side thats is the clevis for the band.this will tell you if the band is broke.i repaired my 1972 ford fairmount for this problem 16 to 18 hours to rebuild always replace the torque converter when rebuilding.matal shavings and other debris is in the old converter you do not want this to contact you new parts or your rebuild is worthless might as well not do it.band adjustment is critical let me know when you get to the point just before install valve body you can ajust visiually.WARNING do not repeat do not open valve body unless you know how or have a drawing you loose rubber ball shuttle valves your dead in the water.with the new fluid the valve will clean it self.
repeat do not open valve body unless you know how or have a drawing.i personally experianced this my self thats how i know.i got a machenical drawing from ford dealer to fix.
the new transaxles use dextron2 tranny fluid sable tauras crown vic etc.some light truck also
Post edited by: hobbist, at: 2008/04/16 18:35
Post edited by: hobbist, at: 2008/05/21 18:29
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