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Coxy
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Posted 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago #1
I have a Honeywell Compact Cube fridge
model 88031 - 1.8 cubic feet 65W
The 12 volt fans inside and out just osillates, as does the LED on the temp control switch inside. I probed with meter and am only getting 6VDC on the fans and around 17V
on a three wire harness I unplugged going inside of fridge. When I did unplug this the all fans started to run and the fridge started to get colder, but the LED on the temp control went out. I beleive it is something on the AC board that is giving me lower DC voltage on the seperate DC board. Any suggestions or can I just make this into a DC fridge?
Sunshinesity
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago #2
I had the same problem and fixed it by purchasing a new capacitor. 1000 micro F, 25 volts. I unsoldered the popped capacitor, It is the smaller, single one to the left of the larger, silver coloured, square part.
You can find the capacitor at www.digikey.com. It is made by Panasonic and it's manufacturer part number is EEU-FM1E102. The Digi-key part number is P12379-ND. It costs 76 cents US plus shipping. Be careful to note which end is negative when you remove the old capacitor. The new one has to be put in the exact same way!
Good Luck
anonymous
Guest
Posted 4 Months ago #3
i'm having the same similar problem, but i changed the cap mentioned. still have 10.6 v once the white cord 3 plug plugged in from smaller board.then 12.12 v when not plugged in. i'm having someone more expirenced with electronics as he thinks something has gone bad on the smaller board.the larger p.s. board checks out ok. i will follow up with what my solution is for my situation.
anonymous
Guest
Posted 3 Months ago #4
i found out it needs the other componants connected then the voltage stablizes. so the cap essentally corrected my problem.

I replaced my cap what other recommended which was a 16v 1000uf , now a 25 v 1000uf. it should be double for what the voltage is. so I gather at the assembly shop in china they were using leftover stock. I have my fridge plugged back in now with a power meter on it, so I really think this cap was bad already when I brought the fridge home. I'm also monitoring for water with a tray to catch any. if these fans were not running all the time before could have caused the water overfilling the drip pan and water on the floor.
Wizzard
Guest
Posted 2 Months, 2 Weeks ago #5
Thank-you so much for posting this fix! I had my favorite fridge running again with a capacitor I robbed from and old computer power supply in about 7 minutes!!
Mark
Guest
Posted 1 Month, 3 Weeks ago #6
Hi, I have the same Honeywell fridge. I have removed the board to inspect it and found some hard clear solid matter around the cap "C9". I'm guessing it's from the cap. Is this the cap. that fails? If it is, I should be able to get a new one in 25v as you suggested. When I remove the one on the board, how to I tell the polarity?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
Mark
Guest
Posted 1 Month, 3 Weeks ago #7
Hi again,

I have been reading a bit more on the Honeywell 88031 compact fridge and thought I'd add this:
I can't see any bulge on the top of any of the capacitors.
All the fans on this unit are running and when the unit is pluged in with the thermostat turned to the coldest setting it is acctually warming the inside of the unit about 20 deg above ambient.
The large aluminum part inside the fridge (below the inside fan) is warm to the touch.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again,

Mark
John
Guest
Posted 1 Month, 2 Weeks ago #8
mark i found this on fixya, maybe this is your solution:

just wanted to let you know that these fridges are not the compressor type. They use a TEC1-12706 thermo-electric chip that pushes heat from the inside of the fridge to what is apparently a huge heat core on the back. Looks like a regular fridge... but I don't think there is any coolant in these puppies.
Anyways... everything seems to be running on my fridge (fans, lights, etc)... but it doesn't cool. I have read of blown caps and diodes on the power supply... but this doesn't seem to be the case for me as all of my measurements show proper power is being supplied. I suspect that the TEC is gone... so I am going to order one on Ebay and give it a shot.



lucky for me just capacitor c10 corrected my problem. good luck mark!
John
Guest
Posted 1 Month, 2 Weeks ago #9
mark;

read 'Sunshinesity' post above regarding polarity.
Amerillove
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Posted 1 Month, 1 Week ago #10
The Digi-key part number is P12379-ND. It costs 76 cents US plus shipping.
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