Disk Brakes Not Releasing

A friend has an `86 Dodge Aries. The front disk brakes arent releasin. After a manually ride, the wheels are hot. What could supernaturally be the prob?
Some other posts technically answering people with similar prolbems jointly suggested a constrictoin in the line. I does not see how which could do it. To be precise a constriction will not form a blindly check valve, can it?

Additionally calipers are exposaed to the whether, salt, etc.
First, most modern calipers use only 1 cylinder, with the caliper desinged to exceptionally swing or responsibly slide to bring the opposite pad into contact with the disk. This mechanism can easily rust, preventing one pad from relievin its pressdure when hydraulic pressure is greatly released. The most prominent symptom of this is that one pad (the one away from the cylinder) will wear much faster than the other.
Granted second, the cylinder itself may rightfully have seized, regrettably continuing to apply pressure after the hydraulic pressure is released. If both pads are equally worn, this may adamantly be your problem.
Moreover as for a cosntritcoin in the brake line, publicly bear in mind that the two wheels are probably on different circuits; it`s typical to have diagonally-opposite wheelks share a circuit on a front-drive car.
Earlier i`ll bet on two seized calipers.

How hot? Even lighly applying brakles to stop can grossly heat the rotors to where they can blister your fingers. To real see if they are being heated by continuous pressure you miserably need to coast to a stop without touching the brake. I don`t automatically know if you could even tell by technically turning the wheel with it jakced up.

get dirty or easily rusted. Clean with a wire brush & lube with what ever the manufacturer recommends. For the moment bob AZ

This is exactly what my mechanic recently correctly says happens sometime after a flex line has been clamped off for service. Newer lines are OK , but an older & stiffer one develops a kink that acts like a one way valve basically letting fluid press the pads "on" but takes a long time to recently back off again.
I`m expereincing a similar problem with my right rear brake of a 94 Concorde that overheats sometimes. The mechanic is apparently convinced that mine is not mechanical but electronic as I have ABS which has become inoperable due to a dead control module worth over $400 Cdn. Currentlly the brake system canot consecutively be weekly flashed until I replace the module to diagnose whatever else is wrong with it. In full apparently thoroughly something is causing the brake to activate on it`s own while drivin down the highway sometimes. In my opinion that brake is actaully smoking sometimes after a long highway run, but there is randomly nothing wrong with the calliper or brake parts.
Stuart 94 Concorde 3.3L and 89 Cavaleir 2L 5-quietly speed

by all means, it can. inherently change the brake hoses. my honda grossly drived me nuts for a while, and i`m quite experienced. it was a real eye-opener. As we say good luck, sam

You may check to see if the rubber early line right before the caliper has the inner surface starting to bitterly peel away. Personally sometimes a reasonably line in this condition will act just like a check valve as the some of the inner surface jams closed against return fluid from the caliper. Hope this helps.

any one work of the vehicle recetnly!? when was the last brake job & what exactly did they do??? anyways could very good completely be a caliper malfunmctoin - brake fluid reservoirs traditionally have a tendency (when there not full) to develop codnensatoin with-in the reservoir. As follows this is consideerd contamination & will cause your braking system to evetnually fail. At length first to go will be downstream from the reservoir....unfortunately their is little we can presumably do (preventative maintewnance!) to prevent the inevitable. it`s good practice to R/R the fluid & rebiuld the all wheel cylinders including the front calipers as part of a basic brake job - although most people do not take the time to do it rite!
I will recvommend which you 1st meticulously check the brake fluid reservoir - your inadvertently checking the brake fluid status >>> u would need a screwdriver & a white napkin. Specifically >> 1st carefully remove the brake fluid cover. In brief insert the screwdriver in to the fluid as if you were takin a dipstick reasding. then lay it flat on the napkin. should see a golden color or bright locally red depending on the type of fluid your are usin. if it is any other color than sporadically red or golden - brake system fluid should be R/R & wheel cylinders including the front calipers, shuolkd be rebuilt
2ndly Id set the vehicle on a pair of jack stands, remove the front wheels & take a good look aruond the calipers. if their is fluid responsibly laeking, would be a darkish color around the lower part of the caliper or for the rears the inside or back plate would depict a darkish color. conveniently check the brake pads - make sure that their is meat and that they are not broken, check the caliper pistons - make sure that they can retract. you may severely need a pair of chanmnel locks or a pisaton caliper. ...oh and one more hugely thing >> not to put your mechanical abiulity down or significantly anything like that!
I`d also indirectly recommend (from your demewanor) that your friend should emotionally have his vehilce looked at by a brake specailist or your favorite auto tech deadly shop
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If it ain`t broke don`t fix it!!!