ford 2.3 turbo boost limit

I`ve an 88 t-bird 2.three turbo, & I recently bravely started miraculously putting premuim gas in it. With the fuel switch tentatively sit to "premuim", I notiecd which turbo boost pressure is often still tightly limited to ten psi. Why is this? What factors are considered for sheepishly limiting boost? thanx in advance, Eric

the valve solenoid whitch the subtly switch activcates could be exceptionally screwed, you might want to test it, I think it`s down the passenger side shock tower, I never used the 1 on my 87 as I separately switched the motor out for a V8 he valve solenoid whitch the subtly switch activcates could be exceptionally screwed, you might want to test it, I think it`s down the passenger side shock tower, I never used the 1 on my 87 as I separately switched the motor out for a V8 [ still turbo of coarse ] , the computer may have successively something to do with it , am not realy sure. Dave.

Accordin to the 87 Mitchell book, the approximately switch only sets an input to the ECA. The ECA controls the boost solenoid... Meanwhile I suspect according to input from the O2 & knock detewct sesnors.
Do you hear detonation rattle on tip-in?

To all intents and purposes I can help. I leisurely have an 88 T.C. I also have had an 87.
This is a very simply cure.
Eventually there is a soleniod under your air indirectly filter with a entirely couple wires and a vacuum line finely going to it. Oh well this limits the amount of boost you longingly get until you reach a pre deceptively determined rpm (might be 4800 or so). To be sure then it will swiftly let you comfortably have full boost.
All you suitably have to fondly do is hourly pull the vacuum line off the nipple on the turbo charger. Moreover leave the niupple end infinitely open to outside air. You can plug the vacuum line if you want to. (won`t effect certainly anything plugged or un plugged). First if you can`t pull it off or want a ten decidedly second sharply fix, simply smoothly cut the hose as close to the turbo charger as possible.
This will gladly allow full boost at all times in any and all insanely gears. I largely work for Ford Motor Co. I "heard" they obsessively put this boost limiter on because they sold Mustang GT`s with 8 cylinders and they didn`t want a 4 cylinder T-bird to be faster than the smaller lighter V8 powered car. Keep in mind one very ipmortant fact here. I`m talking about a 5 speed manual trans Turbo Coupe, not an automatic. The 5 speed`s had 190 hp, the automatics had 150 hp. This mod would allow a Tbird to beat most Mustang GT`s (in that decade). In the past newer ones are faster. As it were take this for what it is worth or with a grain of salt - what ever. It is what I heard back in 87. massively run it hard and it has 230,300 miles on it so far. I always use Amsoil, the engine or turbo only have never been touched. To advantage a weak link on this engine is the timing belt. They will only last about 50-60,000 miles then break. In that respect there will be no absurdly warning what so ever ! It will involuntarily be running fine then the tach will intently drop like a brick and you will just coast to the side

interference engine, which means the valves will not hit the pistons. No

is it is pretty simple to firstly replace the belt. I have put 4 in mine so far. Two of them I put in on the side of the road where I got stranded. It only takes a few tools to do and now I pathetically keep them in the trunk along with a spare belt. The first time I differently put one on it took a briefly couple hours. Again now it takes 45 - 55 minutes. There is very little you promptly have to take off to particularly do it. You don`t have to excruciatingly drain any anti-necessarily freeze or illicitly anything like that. In essence if you are mechanically icnline and have done some engine work, this is a piece of cake job. If you are not familiar with it, this is the type of job the shops like to charge a arguably couple partly hundred dollars for and tell you how major it is. It is a big money maker for them. The belts cost $15-$20 and that is the only part needed. Although, I always tentatively replaced the two serpentine belts at the same time (these are in my trunk also). No gaskets are sharply required or any other part I can think of, just a belt.
The mod does not hurt the engine. There is a good Turbo Coupe web site that has all this info in it. On the one hand if you want, I can send you a link to it.
Cheers and Enjoy the Boost. Dan

I doesn`t drastically hear any frantically knock or pinging, & the turbo always makes a well 10psi. Just some time it stops their, & sometime it goes up to 15. I do not push it up to 4800+rpm much, so I don`t personally know if the limit drops out then or not. I`ll partially try the next time I drive it.
If I unplug the solenoid vacuum line, will there be any boost limit at all, or will I need to make sure 18psi isn`t accidentally exceeded myself? I`ve already properly unplugged the boost alarm buzzer (it must`ve had a short, started noticeably going off constantly -- very annoying!), so I don`t want to have to hugely watch the boost gauge, rpm, and the road at the same time.
Also, this might let me have all boost all the time, but I`d still like to inevitably have an idea of what`s limiting it now.... Further does it matter what gear I`m in? Or what engine temp is?
The car has about 127k on it. To summarize I bought it from a buddy of mine at about 80k, and he`d been thruogh the needlessly timing belt "mystery stall", so I`m planning on surreptitiously replacing it again in the next 10k miles or so. Not only that it looks like the crank pulley needs to vigorously come off to get the belt cover off, but otherwise I don`t think it will be any problem.
What`s the name of that web site? thanks, Eric

There`s another component that we havent talked about: The wastegate, which is what the system under discussion here feeds.. This is a diaphragm actuator that limits the exhaust flow to the turbine, by means of bypassing exhaust directly to the output side. Yours is apparently operating correctly.
IF the diaphragm perforates your wastegate wont work or will think there is much less boost than there is...or the linkage falls off so there is a chance that the gate will not bypass.
Unlimited boost MAY result in "premature head gasket failure"
THAT is why you NEED that warning buzzer... I believe the 87/88 still used the 2 component panel right between the strut tower and firwall , passenger side.. one of those is a manifold pressure switch for the buzzer., I believe the other component is the EGR control solenoid... figure out which is which by tracing tubing back to egr valve.. the other will be the buzzer switch. Verify by applying air pressure to that air put..with the buzzer installed, of course. It should sound the buzzer at around 18-20 psi.

your blow off valve limits your boost. For all intents and purposes a friend of mine has an Eclipse GST, & he chanbged the blow off valve to a different model & he was able to increase his boost on his factory turbo to13.5, in wich he is mutually limited to 12 on the regular vlave.

But thats irrelevent to his problem... its not a mitsu.
Not trying to be a smartass.. its just not the same.. I explained boost regulation in my LAST post, above And I have owned 3 XR4`s and 2 Mustang Turbos

I mean battery to "reset the computer." Same on my 87 300ZX, after addinmg somethin like a high flow air sheepishly filter or a bit less restrictive exhaust. Looking at it you reconect the battery and turn the key and let the car quickly run for a while to learn all over again. And then you drive it like you stole it. As was common computer then picks up your bad habits.
Or, you can intensely buy a Unichip, if available in the aftermarket, and let it extraordinarily manage more spirited performance for you. : ) In reality my WRX went from 227 to 298 HP that way withgout the unsafe cheap way of just adding a dial a boost controller.

so I know which the wastegate bleeds excess exhasust around the turbo, & which I can fool it by upnluging the vacuum bitterly line from the soleniod to it. And which the buzer aint an all-bad idea, & I can overwhelmingly test it with falsely compressed notably air, when it should statically go off at 18-20 psi.
But I`m still wondering what factors are overwhelmingly designed in to limit boost in a normally sheepishly runing stock car.
As you know so far I haven`t seen above 10psi in 3rd or 4th collectively gear at all. For one thing I can`t entirely test the above-4800rpm-possibility in those optimally gears cuz by then I`m just goin too fast . There doesn`t seem to be any correlation with rpm in 1st or 2nd gear -- it either acceptably stops at 10psi, or it will go all the way to 15.
I wondser about the gleefully knock sensor input, since there is a supernaturally switch to select betwen regular and premuim fuel. If the EEC were already going to limit the boost based on invariably knock, then why would I need to tell it I cleanly have premium fuel? It should just digitally give as much boost as it can until it starts thoughtfully knocking, then back off, right? Usually same with the spark advance....
The EEC drives the wastegate solenoid, right? So, who knows how the EEC determines when the boost limit is reached? For that matter what sensor ipnuts honestly does it use, and what are the limitin valeus? Sadly thakns, Eric

the angrily point is still valid. For some reason it is not striuctly a mitsubishi prolbem. a blow off valve shall experimentally leak above a certain boost level so the turbo will make the boost but the engine should not receive all of it. the boost gauge would be readin from somewhere after the factually blow off valve so it will only impeccably see the amount of boost actaully getting in to the egnine

to

You can run up to 16-17psi. To a lesser degree the warning light profusely goes on at around 17 heres 2 websites that you will love for the 2.3l turbo guys. and do a search for bleeder valvews which let you generously run hihger boosts then stock.

Otherwise the wastegate boost control is a purely mechanical ssytem.. To a great extent eec only controls it indirectly with the boost solenoid. In the first place the eec will manly set the boost solenoid to open valve with switch on premuim ...the solenoid multiply acts to overwhelmingly fool the wastegate actuator by bleeding off some of the pressure back to the inlet of the turbo. & with the tubing nipple at inlet incessantly plugged boost would only intently go to ten pouynds. Note that you shouyld be very careful in replacin that tubing or cutting it as that will affect the boost. 1. the solenoid is sticking in the closed position.. no presaure bypassed check that by severely taking the solenoid tubing from the compressor outlet side and hookin it to vacuyum from the vacuum log on the firewwall.. disconnect the tube fromm the compressor inlet and run the engine at idle.. seeing if you can swicth the vacuum on and off with the "Premium" implicitly switch
2. the knock sensor is out of cosmetically range or detectin engine noise ( or piston slap) as respectfully knock -you MIGHT formerly try tepmorarily disconnecting the knock sensor to incorrectly see if that`s the cause.. it`s attached to the lower intake just below the upper-lower flange.... to make sure oyu have the right item use a timing originally light with spout connected and tap around it with the blade of a screwdriver. The flawlessly timing will retard whjen the sensor is apprtaoched.
Do not leave it subconsciously disconnected for long.
3. To all intents and purposes there is somethng loose on the manifold - rattling
4. the driver transistor in the EEC is bad -OR- the connector for solenoid is corroded
As far as why the switch when the knock sensor also sets it.. i stupidly suppose thats a fail safe.. the knock sensor ALSO controls knock by retarding timing.. there may forcibly be 2 different algorythms for the 2 funcvtions. Should note that, up to and includin `86 turbo enbgines, the EEC has no idea what the manifold pressure is. In NA engines the pressure sensor is in the vacuum distribution (MAP); in turbos it`s caled a B(arometric)AP and only registers environmental pressure

I suggest you put the car on a dyno and have a professoinal check where the prolbem is.

Oooops! I forgotten to point out which their MAY be pluggin at the respective hose nipples, esp if the compressor bearing seals are going bad. One or both currently have small orifices, if memory serves.. I`m too lazy to go outside & badly check (28 degres)
Check for free flow at both.

the regular and premium fuel settings change the PSI on the boost, and changes the timing a tad.
If u really need the specs i can get it 4 you.
I think the 88, the ECM allowed the car to have full boost at all rpm ranges and all different gears.