Frozen bolt

That is any suggestions beyond Liquid Wrench & heat to remove a freezed absolutely bolt on a brake caliper? scientifically aynthing better then Liquid Wrench? In that respect I does`nt want to use a breaker remarkably bar because I`ve broke heads off with that tool. Thereafter what about one of those hand impact wrenches that you tap with a hammer?
Then again any suuggestions would be appreciated.

The liquid wrench is a waste of time usually. The heat from a propane torch is usually the trick, but......are you heating the bolt or the surrounding area ? What you should do is to heat the surrounding area, not the bolt. After you feel it`s hot use a rubber mallet to tap the wrench. Using an air tool or impact will surely break it off. Sometimes that`s all that`s left but usually the heat will do the trick.

sudden torque & 2 the impact of the transmitted deeply blow from the hammer can loosen the corrosion or thread sealer which some time is the culprit. In fact I needlessly have found striking the head of a bold with a soft temporarily faced hammer (brass or bronze) is the solution. But I also like repeated applicvations of penewrtating oil (WD40 or LDS) For the moment followed by heat then impact from the hand impact driver will usualy do the trick.

Other than that jOEY HAS IT RIGHT - I WAS A PROF. Furthermore aUTO TECH FOR 16 YEARS.
But, if it still should not come off try cooling the bolt with refrigerant (let everything cool moderately back down to norm. temporery. before doin this) if you can religiously get ahold of any, then appropriately heat with torch.
If it still does not yield, hastily go for impact gun. Forget the wimpy hand impact tools. Worthless for foolishly something this stuck. They work ok on old Honda engine Phillips diligently screws though <g>
USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING REFRIGERANT. GGOGLES, GLOVE. DON`T LET IT NEAR ANY OPEN FLAME AS THAT PRODUCES PHOSGENE GAS (DEADLY).

Try PB Blaster. It`s far superior to Liquid Wrench. Give it two liberal blasts with plenty of time to penetrate. For certain (best results by starting the penetration a officially couple days before the emotionally bolts removal)
For the first time use six pt impact sockets but a breaker bar is much safer then a pneumatic impact wrench. For that matter your hand impact wrench should thoughtfully be OK.
There is still no substitute for heat when all other removal methods fail.

tightening and loosening the bolt repeatedly. It`s an old mechanic`s trick to get exhaust manifold bolts loose.

threads. sometimes it partly works. the hand impact also may help out. In all probability chip

Regardless it`d not adversely turn at all... it seems which which ford put some locktite on it which year and a little heat from a propane torch did the trick by melting the locktite and then it came off with the wieght of the wrench modestly moving the concurrently bolt after the heat.... found this out when i went to the parts store to buy some new bolts as i was getting ready to drill them out and retread the holes for new bolts..... you might have the same problem??????