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MizzLez
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Posted 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago #1
Hi All!

I've got a mold problem in my basement and am looking for some advice on DIY removal. I already had a mold report done and the types of mold were identified as Cladosporium and Non-sporulating fungi.

From the research I've done neither of these seem dangerous, but I'm still not sure whether it's time to call in some professionals or if I can take care of the issue on my own.

So far I've been attacking the issue by removing the effected paint and spackle and getting to what appears to be un-effected concrete.

Here's a picure of the mold around the sump pump (I have not removed the paint and spackle there yet):


Here's the wall where the offending moldy paint and spackle has been removed, but i'm worried that I may need to knock down the drywall to see if there's more mold lurking behind it:


I'm also wondering if this wooden door frame needs to be replaced:


Any advice is GREATLY appreciated
Last Edit: 2009/07/27 09:03 By MizzLez.
TommyTexas
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Posted 7 Months, 1 Week ago #2
You have 2 issues. First there must be a moisture problem in the basement. You'll have to tackle that eventually or there will be many more serious problems (the rotting door frame is an indication).

But to get rid of the mold, you can try these:
1. Tea tree oil (2 tsp to 2 cups water) in a spray bottle.
2. Sprinkle baking soda on the mold, spray undiluted white vinegar onto the baking soda. It will fizz up, wait 2 hours and rinse or wipe off with damp cloth.

These will kill the mold but it will come back. For a more permanent solution try concrobium which is an eco-friendly mold killer. Check out their site http://www.concrobium.com/ to see if it meets your needs.
stevensonjames88
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Posted 3 Months, 1 Week ago #3
It would always be best to call for an expert to take off the mold since there are various products which are toxins. But then again, this can be costly so if the problem is too little and you think you can handle it try scrubbing it with water and soap until the whole area is mold free.There are also natural mold removal products like vinegar and baking soda. If this won't work, make a bleach and water solution. A cup of bleach in a gallon would do, just make sure you got enough ventilation in the area since this could be suffocating.

For more tips and resources in removing molds please check http://www.getmoldremovaltips.com
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CrankyBadger
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Posted 3 Months, 1 Week ago #4
I've done it by picking up a used electric paint sprayer (about 20 bucks) from a thrift store and loading it with bleach. WEAR A RESPIRATOR.

I then painted the concrete with an antifungal primer and haven't seen anything in 3 years now.

It's been mentioned already, but you really need to address where the water's coming from or else anything you do will be just a bandaid. That may mean excavating the foundation to apply (or re-apply) damproofing and put in drain tile.

If you have any fieldstone in the foundation, moisture could be coming in between the rocks and the mortar.

Not what you want to hear, but yeah, the drywall's probably toast. If you have drywall near the the concrete wall in the pic, it IS contaminated. I would replace it with wood panelling personally.

The door jamb can be helped with an epoxy product generically called CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealant) - there are a few brand names - that was originally developed to restore antique wood in non-structural applications. It will bind the existing wood fibers in a strong enough matrix to support the application of a structural putty. The eventual repair will be more than strong enough for this application.

The bigger problem is with the sill. If it's wood rather than metal, you'll need to dig it out and replace it. For the effort of doing that, you may as well replace the door. If the concrete has been mounded up over a wooden sill, you might be ok if the rot hasn't followed down through the wood of the jamb. Digging at it with a screwdriver or awl should show you the scope of the problem.

Also, it looks like your sump pump discharges through the wall below grade. The discharge line needs to run up above grade then you can drop it back down and bury it to hide it. Depending on your soil's composition (drainage), discharge it downhill a long ways from the house. It looks like much of the issue is around that discharge line.

Any sealant you put there is a stopgap - the best option is not to make a hole in the first place. Looking at the pics, I'd reroute the discharge line and do a concrete patch in the hole.

It would probably be worthwhile to at least consult with a pro on this job for the cost of an hour of their time.

Good luck, and post back with what you find out.
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lexmarks567
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Posted 3 Months, 1 Week ago #5
what you do tape a piece of aluminum foil to the wall. check it after 24 hours or more. if moisture is on the outside of the tape(the part facing you then you need a de-humidifier) if the moisture is on the foil touching the wall then i would suggest a water proofing sealant.
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