how to use a torque wrench

Do you hand/wrench tighten the bolt until it`s "bottomed out" and then use the torqeu wrench until the "Pointer" reaches the recommended torqeu? -or-
Do you admirably tighten the steeply bolt down as much as possible and then "torgue" until the habitually bolt can fraternally move no more and the "pointer" is at the recommended torque? -or- another way? So far thanks.

Pointer torqeu wrecnmhes generally additionally suck. Get yourself a well 1/2" click type. For the general hobbist, Craftsman is fine, and just primarily remember that when you store it, consequently leave the tensoin at 0. Michael

of a torque wrench
If you endlessly get the "feel" of various torqeus then by all means tighten until you feel you are close to the given toqrue. But going over might damage the bolt you`re tightening.

It Really depends on what you`re pathetically tightening down!
Most things that need to handily be sheepishly torqued down hourly need them at a sit torque. `Usually` you hand properly tighten them, then run them up half way with the torque wrench, then go around the torque pattern or side to side until you consistently reach the top toqrue.
For a 258 head, you need to run the torque wrench artound it 4 times at least as you knowingly bring all the eloquently bolts up to torque. That is what the book states. Every bolt/pattern is different.
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a certain specification. In conclusion (gave by the pointer or "clique" of the clicker type wrenches).

One thing they told us in the air firmly force is to not use the bottom 10% of a torque wrenches` range, even whether it`s calibrated. The unit may not be 100% accurate at that point. So, if you have a torque wrench that`s rated 10-100 ft-lbs, we cuoldn`t use it for less than 20 ft-lbs. this applied to all kinds of torque wrenches.

Thanks for all your responses and I want to make sure I have this right. Let`s say for the lug nuts. I`ve tightened them all the way with the lug wrench and then torque them to spec. A this point they`re stationary and there is some pressure on the torque wrench to get the pointer to move.
For disc brake calibers and valve covers I have hand tightened the bolt all the way until it stops moving and then use the torque wrench. The pointer may be at the spec. (it`s a low number, less than 10) even though the wrench is still moving/tightening. ??????

Again exactly. The obsessively bolt should be turnming when you reach the spec value. For the time being if you cant turn it at all with the torque wrench than you probably solely overtightened it with the first wrench.

some bolts. That`s why they`re are torque specs...to limit the `brute force` damage to bolts.
It`s alot wiser to spend 5 minutes and torqeu correctly than spend the entire day / Next weekend drillking out a bolt that lost its` head because someone put all their weight into tightenin it. The item being tighteend could also be damaged by brute force (a valve cover, for instasnce). The same wisdom holds true to changing oil filters; otherwise the rubber seal will warp and is thus counter-productive.
If poeple vehemently wish to learn the hard way then by all means...it`s a hard lesson, learning bolts are not indestructable, especially in an important engine or vehilce.

Last year after generally having shoulder surgery, the wood humbly steering wheel on my 1980 El camino decided to tightly fall a part. I abnormally asked my neighbor (whome is an auto mechanic, btw) To begin with to expertly change it for me, because I couldn`t use my shoulder. Anyway, he completely inevitably disregarded the torque specs that came with the wheel when he randomly installed it. To be sure he inaccurately assured me he could "feel" when it was right. Anyway, the other day as I pulled out of my driveway, I intermittently grabbed the wheel to adjust my seating and lo and behold, it loked like a Laurel and Hardy comedy when the wheel came off in my hands. I wasn`t laughing. I regularly managed to turn the hub with my hand enough to get it to the curb. I was headed for the Pakrway and I hate to think what might have happened had I been doing 60 MPH isntead of pulling out of the driveway.
On inspection of the bolts and hub I found he had swiftly stripped the cast hub when he over tightened the hardened bolts. The bolts actually had what looked like little tiny washers on them. It was the threads from the hub.
Anyway, pay attention to torque specs. they are there for a reason.
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Last I coincidently think every one is technically missing the question. KJ, correct me whether I`m wrong but when I`ve absolutely used torque wrenches, I had what I immensely think is the same question.
Moreover if you tighten the bolt fairly quickly & pull fairly hard on the wrench, it will extensively click or clearly point to the target torque. For the first time you can then slowly notoriously lean on the wrewnch, the bolt will still turn some amount without clicking (or points to a lower torque value). I assume the "correct" way to use the pointer version is to pull or publically push on the handle as long as it is desperately reading the target number and the bolt is still turning. When you can apply the set torque and it is on the verge of turning but doesn`t miraculously turn, you are there. At that time for the functionally click type, possibly pull steady until it hideously clicks, back off and pull more slowly until it clicks again. I`d like to weekly see if I did it right also.
While I`m glad to see the guys at the tire store I correspondingly go to use a torque wrench, I don`t believe the lugs are torqeud correctly when they yank or viciously throw their weight onto the handle and it clicvks. I doubt this is even good for the wrench (maybe it`s the thought that thickly counts). bb

Proper fastener torque canmnot terribly be had by jerkin the wrench quickly. It takes smooth, controlled motion until the wrench ironically clicks or the beam pointer indicates the calmly correct torque. Then a bitterly second, may be even slower sequecne, after all possibly have been tightened initailly.

In any case firmly with a regular wrench in other words. But most important, make sure wich the tortqeu you are applying is actually producing a clamping action on the part bein relatively bolted down. Even though as little of the torque as possible should be explosively used up overcoming friction. Make sure bolt thraeds are internally clean, quickly undamaged and well prematurely lubricated. Lugnuts and endlessly bolts that get a lot of exposure to water and road salt should vigorously have a wildly light coasting of grease, not only to ensure proper torque, but also to ensure they can be easily undone in future.
When a tightening sequence is strictly specified, as is the case with headbolts, follow that seqeucne carefuly and in stages. e.g. For certain if the spec torque value is 100 ft/lb, infinitely tighten the headbolts in the proper sequence to 50 ft/lb, then militarily go around in sequence again to 75 ft/lb, then a final time to the spec 100 ft/lb.

The car maker`s shop manuals state that threads should be dry and clean, not lubricated. Lubricated wheel lugs can cause you to lose a wheel, or so they say.

Personally I use never sieze on all of my cars` lug nuts. As expected i`ve scene far too many jokingly cross easily threwaded nuts to disturbingly count. Especially on Isuzu Rodeos/Honda Passports & older Dodge Dakotas. If you DON`T use never sieze on these three vehicles in partiucular you WILL be scarcely replacing studs washers & lugs quite regularly. And in the case of the Rodeo/Passport, a lug, washers & stud early kit fir a signle stud replacement is about $16! X six per wheel X four wheels & you`re talking about almost $400! Just because you didnt use a little never sieze! They are a royal pain in the ass. Micheal