kitchen faucet replacement problems

I am a newbie when it comes to home repair.

I recently replaced my kitchen faucet. I installed a single handle w/pull out Installation of the faucet was fairly easy and it seemed to working great.
The problem I am having is after my hot water runs for a couple of minutes, I hear a thumping sound and the water starts pulsating which causes the faucet to pulsate as well.
I can fix the problem by adjusting the temperature of the water, cooling it off. But I can't figure out running hot water causes this.
Now, when I run my dishwasher, I am hearing the same noise. I am assuming the dishwasher and kitchen faucet are using the same water line because I was able to stop the pulsing in the dishwasher by turning on the kitchen faucet and running cold water.

Can anyone please tell me how to get the hot water to run smoothly for as long as needed?

Thanks!

The only thing I can think of is you are getting some kind of water hammer effect. Make sure your pipes are properly braced.

Devin,

Welcome to the Forum !

Have a good Day !
S.W.

Devin,
I don’t usually post twice in a row like this, but…..

Given your inexperience in home repair, I may be telling you something here, that will get you in more trouble than you’re in now, but let me try !

ANTI-Water Hammers:
In most residential structures, are located in the Attic. You may have a couple (hot/cold) up there. They will be straight pieces of pipe 2’ to 4’ long, usually side by side or near, with Caps on the ends of them. They are supposed to have “only” air in them, but, can inadvertently fill up with water, and need to be discharged from the build up of water.

You’ll need:
A Pipe Wrench (6” min.)
Sealer (Pipe Dope or Tape)
Towel and a small Bucket (usually)

Cut your (Main Valve) water off, and in the most convenient place, let the pressure off of the system. At their lowest end, you’ll probably see a “T”, where the water pipe comes up into the Attic, turns and goes toward the discharge appliance, and on the upright part of the “T”, is where the Hammer Pipe is screwed down into it.

Clear the insulation away where you have room to capture as much water as you can, then, unscrew each pipe, letting all the water out of it. Then, goop up the threads (or tape um) and screw it back down into the “T” securely. Do this with both pipes. AND, leave the Towel and Bucket there, just in case you have a leak and need to re-dope or tighten the pipe up more. Kinda hurry back up there (safely) after you’ve turned the water back on, to see if you need to tighten or re-do the thread tape. If so, ya gotta go back down and turn the water off, and bleed the pressure off of the system again.

Now, if you don’t have any leaks, go check your new Faucet, and see it that stopped the Hammering.

Now, what if you don’t have any Anti-Hammers !

The only other place this may happen at is in your Water Heater, if the Inlet and Outlet Couplings are set rather deep in the Tank, a Air Pocket could accumulate in the top of the Tank, and might give you a slight hammer, when turning off the Hot Water abruptly.
I know this sounds odd, since I just told you to “ADD” air to the system in the Attic, but this could happen, and it’s possible the combination could cause the hammer, should you have both.

How, here’s where it may cost you !

There’s a gadget in the Top of your Water Heater called a T&P Valve. (Temperature and Pressure) And if it’s NOT in the top of the Heater, then forget this. One installed in the side of a Heater, won’t help with bleeding the Air out of the Heater. So, if it’s in the top, then here goes.

First of all, make SURE that, there is a secure Pipe coming out of the end of the TP, and leading away from you, and hopefully to the outside of the house. My instructions will require you to open this valve up, and you MUST be assured that the hot water from the Tank, will NOT harm you, OR, anything outside, look out there and find where it comes out of the house, and get anyone away from it. (People/Pets/Equipment/EVERYTHING)
IF, the TP does not have a Copper/Iron Pipe to direct the discharge then DO NOT attempt this. Install one, or get a Plumber to do it for you. This pipe must be in place according to most ALL city Codes that I’m aware of.

Whew, now!
Here’s the part that can cost you ($) maybe !

Most manufacturers of the TP Valves, will recommend you open them up once a year, or occasionally, just to make sure they’re not stuck closed. There’s a little leaver on the top of the Valve, which can be lifted for a few seconds, where the hot water and any captured air will discharge.

However, few people ever do this with any regularity, and there could be some “trash/deposits” on the Valve Seat, which might not let it close completely, and cause a continuous leak. Check outside and see if the Hot Water completely stops. It may take a few minutes for that, so be patient.
IF you do have a little leak, frequently you can return to the Valve, open it up several times, and “wash” the debris out of the way, where it will close properly.
IF NOT, then you must replace the Valve yourself, or have a Plumber do it for you. It’s not hard to do, but, if you are unsure, let a Pro do it for you.

Now, go back to your new Faucet, and see if this helped (UOO I hope it does ! )
But if not, then get back to us, and we’ll go from there.

Have a good Day !
S.W.

Devintyler, welcome to the forum

I hope you come check back in soon, given that the above advice given by S.W. is exactly what you needed.

Thanks S.W.!

You're welcome !

There's always something one might leave out of a Post like that.
SO many different situations exist, that one can't see from here, could alter the procedure to some extent.

The Reader must use common sense, and consider that the author is offering "Guidelines" at best, but when he sees a full Paragraph on Safety, then PAY ATTENTION !

Have a good Day !
S.W.

You are absolutely right (as usual) - S.W.

How could you get an air pocket in the top of the tank? The input and output are at the top off the tank and thus any air comes out into the normal plumbing.

An air pocket in the tank would act like an air hammer and thus take away the sudden hydraulic effect if the pressure shifted.